Thursday, June 23, 2011

LHQ - Binding - Basics


Note - these instructions are written in LEFTISH.
If you are right-handed - just reverse the directions.

For this demo I assembled a little mini-quilt and some strips for binding

I prepped the binding like I showed you before – and made a little roll


Machine stitch down
Leaving a “tail” of about six inches – for joining the ends later
Start about 2/3 of the way down one side – 1/3 of the way before a corner
(I usually start on the bottom side - and you don't want to start AT a corner - there's too much going on there!)

I like to use my quilting even-feed foot – to attach my quilt binding.
The seam allowance is 3/8” instead of 1/4" and results in the binding being the same width on the front and back – if you cut the strips 2-1/2”.

Some quilters like to use a 1/4" foot so the binding is wider on the back and there is more fabric to fold over – it’s not as tight when they go to hand stitch it down.

Personally - I prefer my bindings to be the same width on the front and back.  I think it looks nicer – just my personal preference, that’s all.


Fold up the bottom – ("bottoms up") - 3/8” – to mark the stopping point
See the 3/8" mark on the right side of the ruler - lined up with the bottom of the piece?
If you were using your 1/4" foot - you would fold it up 1/4" - not 3/8".

Stop at the marked point and backstitch

Remove the quilt from the sewing machine – turn it so that the side you just sewed is on the top – and the second side is on the right - fold the strip up

and then back down – on top of itself - line up the raw edge with the second side

Starting at the top – stitch it down

You can see the fold in the corner – that’s going to be the miter

Fold it up a bit – to see


mainer-meinca uses a one-pin system – check it out – here

I do it a little differently – but not much!

Sew around the quilt – mitering the corners as shown above.

When you get to the end – stop about 6” away from where you started.

Remove the quilt from the machine – you should have about 6” “tails” at both ends.
(Mine are a little short - and it made joining the ends more difficult than it had to be.
You are better off with longer tails - more room to "sew" - mine got a bit tight.)

The easiest way to join the ends – is to use a straight seam.  That's why I like to use straight seams when I stitch the binding together.  You can find demos of diagonal seam joinings on other blogs - so I won't do it here.  (Diagonal seams are trickier – and you better watch which piece you have on top – or your seam may go the wrong way – ask me how I know!)

Lay the quilt on your pressing surface – fold the binding to “meet in the middle” and press them both.

Open up the binding – pin them together – folding the rest of the quilt out of the way.
(Make sure you pin them the right way.  You want the seam allowances to be on the "inside" - I've done THAT part wrong, too!)

and sew on the crease lines.
(This is where it got tight.)


Take the quilt back to your pressing surface – spread the binding out to see if it fits - and that the seam allowances are on the "inside".  If it doesn’t fit – repin and restitch the seam.
(If you trimmed the seam already - you may not be able to fix it.)

When it fits – trim the seam – press the seam allowance open (like the rest of the binding strips) and finish stitching the binding to the quilt.

After the binding is completely sewn to the quilt – I trim the backing and batting even with the binding all around.

Next up - the "other" side -

Talk to you later – gotta go – gotta sew –


mainer said...

OK! This is how I do it! See my blog:)

Rose said...

I'm going to try this method. I end the strips on the diagonal other than that, much like you do.
Do you backstitch before and after the mitered corner?


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